Gun overheating ??

Discussion in 'Machines, Equipment & Setup' started by steve69, 20 Apr 2009.

  1. steve69

    steve69 Regular Member

    Hi, i bought a complete kit which is good to get started with but i find that after 2-3 hours running the gun seems to lag a bit. Is it just the coils getting hot where it is a relatively cheap made machine. If i increase the volts slightly that does help.
    Oh my machines have 8 wrap coils. Any advice please.
  2. Starbuck42

    Starbuck42 Premium

    If you have a quite cheap machine from a kit, you should maybe get a new spring. The contact screws seem to be poor on these machines and tend to melt.
    Is your top spring going black where it contacts with the screw?
    If so, get a new spring and contact screw. Im sure thats your problem.
  3. steve69

    steve69 Regular Member

    Yes it does go black. Spot on reply. Many thanks for your help. Regards Steve.
  4. inked69er

    inked69er Premium

    same prob

    yep thx i have the same problem i paid £120 for my first kit i got a liner an shader with it an there really bad so i got a new 1 for £75 an its still really bad iam looking for a good one if anyone can tell me whats good an what to look out for thx
  5. Albionwolf

    Albionwolf Regular Member

    It's an old post but I'll put something anyways if ur after good solid handmade machines on a budget try hoodlum uk they have a really good name for them selves and make cracking machine for as little as £40
  6. toetoe62

    toetoe62 Donator Premium

    with it being a cheap kit the coils may not even be 8 wraps they are more like 6, also more people are turning to rotary machines and you seem to get more for your money, except for the high end machines.
  7. oultimer

    oultimer Premium

    I cant understand why people can still be bothered with all this when the Hawk spirit machine is available ok it costs a few quid but be honest !if you are a half decent tattoest or is that tattoer!you can make that money back no
  8. Tattooz

    Tattooz Donator

    Volts vary on every machine. I remember coming on here last year when it was pretty new and everyone was asking what volts a liner and shader should be set at.
    Nobody knows. My Micky Sharpz dial runs at 12.5v, like most of them. That is just how they are. I have Glyn Flews that vary between 7v and 11v. It all depends on setup, colils, springs, frame, sping tention, bend in springs, etc, etc.

    I would say the main reason for machine over heating = crappy coils.
  9. TattooJay

    TattooJay Premium

    Many of the people on this forum are still learning and not taking the machine right to skin to make any investment back. So maybe they want to start out with something cheaper. But I will say this, starting off with something that is a better quality will more then likely save you money in the long run. But starting out with the cheaper machines can be a great learning process for the self taught artist. Like the original poster in this thread has bad coils, now he must by good ones, take his machine a part and install them. That's good experience.
  10. INKBender

    INKBender Premium

    if your duty cycle is not at 50 percent or close, your machine will get hot.
  11. jimmyboy

    jimmyboy Premium

    Inkbender i notice that you also put this kind of response on another thread ... duty cycle is not all the be all & end all of tattooing and mostly just good marketing from a well known supplier of power units... many many great tattoo artist have run there machines without ever using a digital PS let alone one of the all singing all dancing tuning units?

    believe me relying on the duty cycle to tune a machine is pretty much pointless, you can have 2 different machines that will ink skin exactly the same yet be totally different on duty??
    I am an electrician and there is so much wrong with this method it's unreal... duty cycles can be affected by vibration, voltage, spring gauge, and believe it or not even angles the machine is held at, and will in know way affect the running temperature of the machine, that will be from connections, capacitor, coils etc, but not via duty. and by the way although eikon make fantastic PS , the need for the readings are not necessary, you can purchase a £15 multimeter and use that if you think it will help fine tune the machine and save a few hundred quid on a supply.

  12. toetoe62

    toetoe62 Donator Premium

    i agree, the best power supply i had was a broken one, none of the display would work but it was a real good heavy duty one and at this time i had been running my machines for over six months and had learned to hear the machine was running right and not to rely on a digital display, when people ask what volts and duty do you run your machines at doesn't mean anything as all machines are different and have different set ups, you only have to change a front or back spring to get a different reading, and also about buying a multi metre i think that is a good idea, i got mine for £9 and it's a great little tool even for checking leads and other small jobs, well worth the money.

Share This Page