Coil corrosion on new machine

Otherone11

Premium
5 Feb 2021
21
Maine
First Name
Bob
Hey here-
I purchase an hM mini dietZel liner a couple months ago, it pushes 3-7s, 8 wrap coils, etc.
I finally got around to using it and yesterday for the second use after an hour it start d losing voltage to the point of not penetrating skin. Going back and forth to that working “sound” to a low buzz. I was evaluating the situation turning it on and off and then smoke started coming out from the end of the tube and I smelt burning plastic (from the disposable tube) switched machines for then and when I took it out of the bag later I noticed rusty corrosion on top of the front coil and under the armature bar above that coil? Any thoughts or ideas why this happened? Seems like I’m missing something but I feel like that shouldn’t happen on round two
 

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gadsden1776

Premium
8 Oct 2011
424
First Name
n
kind of a guess here. but part of my day job is finding the root cause of failures in metal parts. a quick google of "rusting on electromagnets" yielded some interesting titles i don't have time to read right now.

so super initial guess - if you were to weld steel, you need a gas (mig/tig) or a flux (stick). there are impurities in the metal & air that will oxidize the metal faster under the heat of welding. i am guessing the capacitor was going, causing excess voltage in areas it shouldn't have been. causing a heat build up. were you getting sparks anywhere? how high were you volts? i am guessing there was an excess of electricity &/or not timed correctly. there is no shielding as in welding so that caused an acceleration of corrosion in these contact areas.

your machine slowing down is a sign of gaussing . i'd say clean it up, replace the capacitor & give it another go.
 

Otherone11

Premium
5 Feb 2021
21
Maine
First Name
Bob
There’s may have been some sparks under the contact screw. I was running it at like 7.2ish. The voktage didn’t change when’s it would slow though.
If it’s is a malfunction that seems like something the company/seller shouldn’t I can right?
 

Otherone11

Premium
5 Feb 2021
21
Maine
First Name
Bob
There’s may have been some sparks under the contact screw. I was running it at like 7.2ish. The voktage didn’t change when’s it would slow though.
If it’s is a malfunction that seems like something the company/seller shouldn’t I can right?
...After only two short sessions that is...
 

marked 4 life

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31 May 2011
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Stoke on Trent
First Name
Andy
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Regarding burning plastic i presume that you ran the machine dry without dipping in ink, a dry needle in a plastic tip causes friction and will melt the tube, our apprentice did it when I had her removing and refitting the needle and tube numerous times to get used to setting needle depth by eye.
The machine losing power is probably the contact screw needs adjusting, if a machine has been standing for a while the rear spring can strain losing tension requiring adjustment, these things do happen.
regarding rust, probably whatever water based chemical you have used for cleaning the machine and putting the machine away without fully air drying it first.
 

Otherone11

Premium
5 Feb 2021
21
Maine
First Name
Bob
There’s a chance it could use some adjusting. To the rust though, I’ve bagged it both times, and only used practice skins. I haven’t used any wash on it. And if you look at the picture the corrosion under the armature bar has a clear ring in it which means that it’s happenibg when in contact with the top of the coil I assume? It was als not there when I started...
 

marked 4 life

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31 May 2011
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Stoke on Trent
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Andy
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A perfect circle on the armature bar shows that it is hitting the coil core squarely, you usually find that on a machine with quite a few hours on it but it could also be that the machine is hitting too hard, all my coils have the same mark but no rust, it is rare to get a coil machine which does not need adjusting straight out of the box and if not once it’s got a few hours on it and has been broken in will need a tweak, ive had brand new Mickey Sharpz, DSM and Glyn Flew machines which have needed adjusting from new, the old fashioned way was that your mentor would show you how to set, adjust and fault find on coils, the modern way is to buy a pen machine and stick a cart in 😂
 

Cyberthrasher

Premium
23 Sep 2019
572
US
First Name
Allen
Gender
Male
the old fashioned way was that your mentor would show you how to set, adjust and fault find on coils..
My world is so backwards!
Evidenced by the shader that has a contact screw completely burnt through to the point that it's making contact on the binding post. I still haven't figured out how that one even runs........
 

Chustik

Premium
19 Jun 2020
80
Spain
First Name
Gerard
Gender
Male
gerard_van_nierop
Have you tried running it without the plastic tube? Sounds like there was too much friction in the tube. Clean up the rust, and give it a go unloaded. If it has low power turn the contact screw in a tiny bit. If you are atill having problems, clean the contact points.

From what i have read it looks like friction in the tube was the problem. Where exactly did it melt? Contact buildup could be it too.

Your rust probably comes from metal dust created by the slapping of the a-bar and the coils. nothing to worry about.



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Otherone11

Premium
5 Feb 2021
21
Maine
First Name
Bob
So I messed around with contact screw and springbtension and used it for another hour today and so far so good. So the “rust” colored circle on the armature bar and top of coil wipes off?? I justs used a cotton swab Andrew it all wiped off. There is a noticeable circle marking but the rust colored stuff wipes off. Still unsure of how that is being produced but at least it’s not rust
 

Otherone11

Premium
5 Feb 2021
21
Maine
First Name
Bob
Have you tried running it without the plastic tube? Sounds like there was too much friction in the tube. Clean up the rust, and give it a go unloaded. If it has low power turn the contact screw in a tiny bit. If you are atill having problems, clean the contact points.

From what i have read it looks like friction in the tube was the problem. Where exactly did it melt? Contact buildup could be it too.

Your rust probably comes from metal dust created by the slapping of the a-bar and the coils. nothing to worry about.
Yes thank you!
So we may have just posted at the same time but I’ve been playing with it unloaded and it seems to be running better. As mentioned above the “rust” just wipes but you said that’s no worrie??
This puts me at ease a bit that you
 

Chustik

Premium
19 Jun 2020
80
Spain
First Name
Gerard
Gender
Male
gerard_van_nierop
You can take a piece of fine sand paper, fold it and put it in between the front spring and the contact screw. Slightly press the a bar up and pull on the sand paper. Do this a couple of times and it should be fine. Have a look and see if the screw is dirty where it contacts the spring.

You can also try to give the contact screw 1/8 of a turn. Could be that it wore a bit.

As for rust, its just metal dust that collects on the machine and gets affected by humidity, especially with parts that are treated with black oxide.
 

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