P Coils Not Even?

Chamberzezz

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I've been asking questions regarding the fact that I'm upgrading my shaders. So instead of asking a different question in an older thread, I'd post a new one.

So, I got these two shaders from the same place (same model). One came with a kit and the other I bought on a separate occasion. I've basically bought them both new front and back posts. Also got front and back springs. When testing the back spring tension I noticed that on one machine the rear coil it slightly higher than the front. On the other machine its the front coil thats slightly higher than the rear. Granted they are both budget machines but still.

Don't both coils need to be level and even? Or can I get away with it?
 

toetoe62

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if you want your machines to run at there best then you need to shim your coils, this is good practise for the future, if you look in the download area there is a very good pdf file on tuning your machines.
 

Chamberzezz

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I'll take a look...

oh and what's Shim?... shimming?

Ok so I've had a look. Just so I understand. As the coils are uneven. I add washers to the base (or remove) to make them level. With the back spring straight, the armature bar should only be paper thickness from the coils? Or did i get that bit wrong?


Thanks
 

j3rz3y1

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You got it right and you did the right thing its good to go into your machiones when you have doubts:icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin: Ed :icon_cool:
 

Patrick

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I'll take a look...

oh and what's Shim?... shimming?

Ok so I've had a look. Just so I understand. As the coils are uneven. I add washers to the base (or remove) to make them level. With the back spring straight, the armature bar should only be paper thickness from the coils? Or did i get that bit wrong?


Thanks
As Ed says you got the shimming bit right, but the armature bar when pressed down should touch the front coil and have a thin gap between the rear coil. If you look at some of the pictures and diagrams that are available it will make sense. I had a machine that didn't run because the armature bar was touching the rear coil first instead of the other way round. By shimming the front coil ( putting a small washer underneath it) this cured the problem.
 

marked 4 life

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I have lost count how many times I have come across it, even on a new machine a few weeks ago.

I always fit a new unbent rear spring to a armature bar (no front spring) fit the assembly and look how it sits across the coils, it should touch the front coil but have a paper thin gap just enough to see light through on the rear coil, the only time this may not be accurate is if the rear spring shelf is ramped or as I found recently ... twisted! a bit of filing down cured that.

Sometimes on cheap coils it is easier to file a little of the underside of the coils to reduce height instead of packing the rear spring shelf with spacers.
 

simon1983

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if you want your machines to run at there best then you need to shim your coils, this is good practise for the future, if you look in the download area there is a very good pdf file on tuning your machines.
Hi just tried to find the tuning guide but can't find it or the download area??? is it still on here?? i've got the tattoo manual.

thanks in advance

si
 

Chamberzezz

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Yeah I sorted the problem with a couple of washers. Though the tops of the front coil isn't flat. so the A Bar touched the edge of the ... well metal circle bit (top of the coil) Pain really but they where cheap machines. To the point that soon as i sorted the problem another one came up. The screw that fits the back spring is buggered. Wont tighten and worst of all, wont loosen. So cant get it out to try a new screw... So its a new machine Or frame at least..... Luckily the other is ok...
 

marked 4 life

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Is the screw which isnt tightening just turning? should be able to remove it ok if it is and either retap it or put a nut and bolt through it or solder a nut on the underside of the spring shelf, is the frame worth repairing or is it a cheap thin chinese item?
 

Chamberzezz

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Is the screw which isnt tightening just turning? should be able to remove it ok if it is and either retap it or put a nut and bolt through it or solder a nut on the underside of the spring shelf, is the frame worth repairing or is it a cheap thin chinese item?
Yeah its just turning. Both ways. Thats a good idea I'll try and get a nut for it. It's a pain. Tonight I'm finishing of the arm colour work I started a while ago. Was going to have one machine for the main bulk of colour/shading and the other for tiding up edges... grrrrr..

I'm guessing its a cheap chinese one. only cost *£19:99...

http://www.thetattooshop.co.uk/shop/tmt24-tattoo-machine.html

but to be honest I really don't know.
 

Chamberzezz

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I have one like that with a decent steel frame, I would tap a new hole in it with an imperial tap instaed of metric so the thread is more coarse, those machines actually run very well once set up.

Just had a look at tattooshop, really like this spaulding bulldog machine http://www.thetattooshop.co.uk/shop/lightweight-old-style-tattoo-machine.html
Would that be tap with a tap drill? To make a new hole or go through the old one? Haha your making me work a bit researching this stuff :) It's great way of learning..
 

marked 4 life

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I would run a tap through the existing hole, you could always run a metric tap through first same size and thread as the original and put a new screw in, could be a soft screw, if that fails just run the closest imperial tap through it and fit a new imperial screw.