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Sculpting Lines Cause I can't single (or even double) pass :(


Joined
20 Feb 2019
Messages
10
Location
vancouver
First Name
Ryan
Gender
Male
Hey everyone,

Still pretty new to this so excuse my noobness :(

I can't seem to get a clean solid single pass line, or even close to it. I usually do the whole tattoo, wipe, then have to sculpt in the lines over top of the first pass to get a really solid stable line. It feels like sometimes I have to go over it like 6 times to get it to really stay. everywhere I read says this is a good way to fuck up someone's skin but so far I haven't had any turnout or look messed up, no blow-outs, never bleeds and everyone has said that they are healing well and the ones I've seen healed look fine (the very odd line falling out).

I run a cheap starter rotary at 7v and usually use 9rl long bars, disposable everything. I go right till I feel and hear the bog but sometimes I think I come out of that depth a tad as I pass through a line and that is maybe why ink doesn't stay but it shouldn't take soooo many passes? I use good ink, shake it every time, I've cut down the amount of vaseline I use... the only thing I can think is my depth because I just barely ride the "bog down" depth, should I try taking it deeper? I would rather do multi-pass than risk blowing out but it's making my tattoos take a long time to complete :( also color takes sooooo many passes in to make it pop :(((

I know people might say go back to fake skin but I'm doing 10 a week (for free as I am still learning) and I do not want to slow down because the pieces are still turning out pretty good and my skill in other areas (line width consistency, smoothness, etc) is improving.

Any insights or thoughts is mega appreciated!!!
 

marked 4 life

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Stoke on Trent, Staffordshire
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Andy
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Rotaries dont usually have a noticeable “bog” which machine is it?
There are a few things which could be causing the problems and should be easy to identify, if you join as a premium member then all you need to know and more will be accessable including a training manual and links to free downloads which will be beneficial to you.

Do you have any pictures of the tattoos that you have done so we can see the line work problems and the machine that you are using.
 
Joined
20 Feb 2019
Messages
10
Location
vancouver
First Name
Ryan
Gender
Male
Rotaries dont usually have a noticeable “bog” which machine is it?
There are a few things which could be causing the problems and should be easy to identify, if you join as a premium member then all you need to know and more will be accessable including a training manual and links to free downloads which will be beneficial to you.

Do you have any pictures of the tattoos that you have done so we can see the line work problems and the machine that you are using.
Thanks for the reply! I will get pics and machine info up when I am home from work!
 
Joined
20 Feb 2019
Messages
10
Location
vancouver
First Name
Ryan
Gender
Male
Rotaries dont usually have a noticeable “bog” which machine is it?
There are a few things which could be causing the problems and should be easy to identify, if you join as a premium member then all you need to know and more will be accessable including a training manual and links to free downloads which will be beneficial to you.

Do you have any pictures of the tattoos that you have done so we can see the line work problems and the machine that you are using.
Ok so the bog I am talking about is when I am stretching with my other hand and can start to feel the skin vibrate also it sounds different when I believe I hit that depth, feel free to correct me if I am wrong!

I don't have the machine box/name but I have attached a pic as well as pics of some recent pieces. (link)


Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

marked 4 life

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Stoke on Trent, Staffordshire
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Doesnt look bad work for a cheap machine, if you are redoing the lines a couple of times then looking at what you have posted it is down to machine, stretch and depth.

Premium membership would be a good decision for you in my opinion as it will take youn to the next level, not bad work, a lot tidier than some ive seen, keep it up 👍
 

fylfot

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England
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david
Is a calf typically easier or harder to tattoo, mate?
The back of a big taut calf is a fantastic area to tattoo, if the lines are going in good there, but not in other areas then at least you can eliminate some things, such as needles/ink/machine and it is more likely due to speed/depth/power/stretch for a more difficult body area.
 
Joined
20 Feb 2019
Messages
10
Location
vancouver
First Name
Ryan
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Male
Doesnt look bad work for a cheap machine, if you are redoing the lines a couple of times then looking at what you have posted it is down to machine, stretch and depth.

Premium membership would be a good decision for you in my opinion as it will take youn to the next level, not bad work, a lot tidier than some ive seen, keep it up 👍
Thanks so much that is very encouraging to hear! I will definitely look into premium and hopefully a better machine in the next month or two!
 
Joined
20 Feb 2019
Messages
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Ryan
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all those areas can be naughty to get solid lines, have you tattooed a calf yet, if so how did the lines go in on that?
I have done 2 on back of the calf and they both took well, same with side thigh, dug my first ditch the other day and that one was a bit of a bitch to strech and get ink in good and ribs have been a bit harder but I notice a lot of variation just from person to person in the same areas.
 
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17 Jan 2019
Messages
6
Location
Denmark/vejle
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Saeid
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Hey everyone,

Still pretty new to this so excuse my noobness :(

I can't seem to get a clean solid single pass line, or even close to it. I usually do the whole tattoo, wipe, then have to sculpt in the lines over top of the first pass to get a really solid stable line. It feels like sometimes I have to go over it like 6 times to get it to really stay. everywhere I read says this is a good way to fuck up someone's skin but so far I haven't had any turnout or look messed up, no blow-outs, never bleeds and everyone has said that they are healing well and the ones I've seen healed look fine (the very odd line falling out).

I run a cheap starter rotary at 7v and usually use 9rl long bars, disposable everything. I go right till I feel and hear the bog but sometimes I think I come out of that depth a tad as I pass through a line and that is maybe why ink doesn't stay but it shouldn't take soooo many passes? I use good ink, shake it every time, I've cut down the amount of vaseline I use... the only thing I can think is my depth because I just barely ride the "bog down" depth, should I try taking it deeper? I would rather do multi-pass than risk blowing out but it's making my tattoos take a long time to complete :( also color takes sooooo many passes in to make it pop :(((

I know people might say go back to fake skin but I'm doing 10 a week (for free as I am still learning) and I do not want to slow down because the pieces are still turning out pretty good and my skill in other areas (line width consistency, smoothness, etc) is improving.

Any insights or thoughts is mega appreciated!!!
Hi
I had this problem, and it's cuz of machine , but good machine to see it's better , cheap rotary better for shading
 

bodey

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25 Apr 2018
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Bodey
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A
Ok so the bog I am talking about is when I am stretching with my other hand and can start to feel the skin vibrate also it sounds different when I believe I hit that depth, feel free to correct me if I am wrong!

I don't have the machine box/name but I have attached a pic as well as pics of some recent pieces. (link)


Thanks in advance for any advice.
It's definitely somewhat of a preference thing, but for me lining on a solid coil machine is significantly easier than with a rotary. Coils seem to punch the lines in more cleanly, and smooth out variations in hand pressure much better than rotaries. From what I've heard, a lot of other people have this same experience.

Additionally, for lining you want to be running your machine around 120Hz or more. If you're just using your ear to set your speed this can sound pretty aggressive depending on your machine. You did say you dug a ditch, so maybe that's not your issue, but something to be aware of.
 
Last edited:
Joined
20 Feb 2019
Messages
10
Location
vancouver
First Name
Ryan
Gender
Male
A


It's definitely somewhat of a preference thing, but for me lining on a solid coil machine is significantly easier than with a rotary. Coils seem to punch the lines in more cleanly, and smooth out variations in hand pressure much better than rotaries. From what I've heard, a lot of other people have this same experience.

Additionally, for lining you want to be running your machine around 120Hz or more. If you're just using your ear to set your speed this can sound pretty aggressive depending on your machine. You did say you dug a ditch, so maybe that's not your issue, but something to be aware of.
I'm not familiar with running my machine at 120Hz.. All it says is the voltage and I run around 7.6, is this the same thing or are you referring to the power of the preamp control thing? I've heard people talk online about needing more power supply to use larger needles.

I have a hurricane power hp-2, would that be ok for running my rotary with 9rl's? what if I wanted to use 18rl's? I don't know how else people go about getting such thick lines otherwise. Would I need a better power supply for a higher quality coil or rotary machine? I've heard coils require more maintenance

Thanks!
 

Goldwingdaz

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I use a HP=2 and its perfectly able to run any groupings. Some rotary will make the HP's switch into safety and stop, this is not always the case but dont worry if it does. just wait a second and hit go again. The rotary machines will not give a hz reading as it relies on the feedback from the coil machines circuit to read this, so with a rotary, see what voltage it will start at easily (perhaps around 5 - 6 volts, then add 2 volts), from there adjust up or down to make the speed comfortable for you, lining nice and fast, shading slower. I run an extreme rotary and i find 8.5v great for lining with groups up to 11 and shading at around 7 - 7.5v is nice with up to a mag 11. If you are using needles and not cartridges you will find voltages can be a slight less as you are not pushing a cartridge membrane. Its all down to what works for you at the end of the day, so experiment and practice til you find your sweet spots. ;)
 


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