P Using Me Liner As Shader and Vice Versa

barcode1973

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No wonder im struggling with colours and me tats hurt I have been using me liner as me shader and vice versa. What a schoolboy error. Was watching that dean deaknye DVD for the 3rd time when it just dawned on me what a spanner I am.
swapped em round and its now lining like a dream without any 2nd or 3rd runs and much smoother.

I did 2 little star things before the bottom one at the speed I was going before the change and it took 21 minutes. The one on the top I did faster and the lines were as solid and it only took me 10 minutes.

No wonder my leg hurt and my nephew complained, I should of guessed the big skull one with the skull contact screw and fancy bits was the liner, I really can't expain how stupid I feel right now.
 

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MrSpoon

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:cheesy: least you figured it all out now and bet it feels much better knowing it was your equipment and not your technique which was holding you back!
 

Reaper G

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he is right good to no its not your skill just the wrong tool for the job :thumbsup:
 

Pancho

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I may be a bit thick here, but how do you know the difference between the two. I have two machine that came with my kit and I don't know which is a Shader or Liner. Ive been using them just with different volts.
 

MrSpoon

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chances are if they came from an ebay kit they probably have identical springs on each machine, so the only thing that will make one a liner or a shader is the gap between armature bar and coils and the gap between timing spring and contact screw.
 

Reaper G

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hi pancho get your machines out and pull the armiture bar down the one with the smaller gap between the contact screw with the size of a 5p is the linner and the machine with the longer throw 2p gap is the shader hope this helps mate if you take a look at wilds albums of her machines you can see what i mean
 

WilD

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No wonder im struggling with colours and me tats hurt I have been using me liner as me shader and vice versa. What a schoolboy error. Was watching that dean deaknye DVD for the 3rd time when it just dawned on me what a spanner I am.
swapped em round and its now lining like a dream without any 2nd or 3rd runs and much smoother.

I did 2 little star things before the bottom one at the speed I was going before the change and it took 21 minutes. The one on the top I did faster and the lines were as solid and it only took me 10 minutes.

No wonder my leg hurt and my nephew complained, I should of guessed the big skull one with the skull contact screw and fancy bits was the liner, I really can't expain how stupid I feel right now.
Hey, I know what you mean. I bought a kit and it came with no instructions or anything. I guessed that the liner was the lighter machine and the shader the heavier one!! I was lucky cos I guessed right - but embarrassed to admit it was a pure guess - I had no clue!!:eek: That's what makes this place so great cos we can get good practical advice.
 

WilD

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chances are if they came from an ebay kit they probably have identical springs on each machine, so the only thing that will make one a liner or a shader is the gap between armature bar and coils and the gap between timing spring and contact screw.
I know what you're on about now - thanks to Skinpix!!:p took his advice re the machine tuning guide and it's helped a lot!
 

MrSpoon

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i've dug out my first machines that i got from ebay, all 3 from the same kit made in china, naturally! and all were advertised as being suitable to setup as shaders and liners. after running tests on them on my powerpack and getting them running smoothly etc, they all run about 90cps, which is the right speed for colour packers. so how on earth your supposed to line with these i'll never know :cry: but i must add... they do have a good strong punch to em
 

barcode1973

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I am gonna take some pics of my liner and shader in normal and bar down positions to see what you all think about the setup. If anyone else could post some pics of there own ones that may be helpful?
 

MrSpoon

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liner looks normal to me, shader looks like it could be wider this is done by losening the back spring, swinging the armature bar to the left hand side and giving it a slight bend upwards and re-tightening in place, should give a slighlly wider gap (approx 2p thickness) and the contact screw will need to be wound back to give the same sort of sized gap. thats all in theory tho... all mamchines are different etc as you know and theres no way of telling what guage springs you have etc give it a try anyway and if it doesn;t feel right you can always change it back :cool:
 

MrSpoon

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ah yeah as skinpix pointed out, they do indeed need to be shimmed, completely missed that :confused:
 

skinpix

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erm shimmed?
when the armature bar is held down,it should only touch the front coil,the rear coil should have about a 1mm gap between it & the armature bar....the easiest way to do this is,put a 1mm washer under the front coil...hope this makes sense.:)
 

barcode1973

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I have read through my tuning guide and I think (and hope) that my photos were not the best? On closer inspection when my bar is down there is the slightest of gap above the back coil. I have tried to take a better picture on a more straight on angle as the slight angle on previous pics does look like they touch?
 

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skinpix

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yep,you are correct mate,they have been shimmed...my bad...:rolleyes:
 

MrSpoon

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haha did look like it needed doing, perhaps the camera angle :eek: